My Tips

1. When files become clogged you can remove the bits of metal from the teeth using a flat piece of brass (3/4" x 1/16" section). After a short while the brass edge forms the same profile as the file teeth and removes all obstacles with ease. If the file is constantly "pinning" and bits are tearing into the work surface rub the file surface (after cleaning) over with chalk or rub soluble oil (1 part oil to 10 water) into the teeth. The result is a much better finish with less grain
   
   
2. When two pieces need to be accurately marked out or drilled then they can be temporarily joined using instant glue or Loctite engineers adhesive (if round material in a hole) and then use gentle heat to break the seal.
   
   
3. Use a plastic film canister to hold a quantity of made-up flux ready for use in silver soldering. The canister top is air tight and the contents will maintain there mixed consistency for many months
   
   
4. Damp proofing material (the modern plastic variety) makes very good way protectors.
   
   
5. When placing a work piece in the milling vice, after an initial "nipping" gently tap the work piece with a copper mallet to ensure it is positioned on it's base. If, as sometimes happens, the parallels feel loos then re-fix with a small strip of paper under the parallel - this way, the parallels remain firmly in position.
   
   
6. Make a slide way protector for the lathe out of a piece of thin brass sheet so that it fastens to the cross slide easily and covers the lathe ways for about 2". The leading edge has a flat piece of felt super glued on the underside to wipe the lathe way as it passes over.
   
   
7. Have the lathe drive belt a little on the slack side so that if there is a calamity the belt will slip and not cause major damage to the lathe or operator.
   
   
8. To machine a good finish on the lathe make sure the tool is sharp and the cutting edge honed so that it is smooth and then set the lathe in slow speed (back gear) with a fine cut on automatic. Add drops of soluble oil to the work as it progresses. It may be slow but the finish is excellent and needs no further finishing with emery.
   
   
9. Bright metal parts or machined cast iron will quickly rust if left as machined. I always give them a quick spray with WD40 and leave then for 5 minutes and then lightly wipe off any excess. The WD40 seems to form a thin protective skin.
   
   
10. When making tools and jigs some bright metal parts will tend to rust. You can paint them but in most cases I prefer to heat the part until it changes to a dark purple colour and then submerge the part in engine oil (clean) and leave until cold. Make sure the oil container has a lid as the burning oil smells for ever. The part comes out a dark purple/black colour and the oil provides rust protection.
    
    
11. Keep marking out fluid in a small bottle which has a brush built into the lid. Use methylated spirit to remove after use.
    
    
12. Dressing the Surface Grinder is very important to ensure the wheel cutting grains are clean. In order to minimize the replication of errors in the cross feed make sure the diamond is positioned directly below the wheel centre (6 o'clock). Errors show up as 'steps' in the surface finish which may be very small but very obvious.
    
    
13. After sharpening a slot or end mill grind a small chamfer on the sharp corner with a relief angle. The cutter will perform very much better.
    
    
14. Keep a sharp set of new drills for finish drilling or holes that need to be to size. These drills are also good for finishing holes in brass where a keen edge is essential.
    
    
15. Look after your vice jaws and grind off the serrated teeth. A plain jaw face which accurately closes to it's matching jaw will provide a good strong grip and not mark your work.
    
    
16. If you use 'Loctite' adhesive or similar to fasten wheels to their axles it is a good idea to provide an additional locking pin. Drill a small hole that is half in the axle and wheel at the joint and hammer in a pin which is slightly oversize.
    
    
17. Where possible use a rear tool post on the lathe with the cutting tool positioned 'upside-down'. This allows cutting to take place with the normal anti-clockwise rotation of the chuck (which is a blessing in the case of the Myford with a screw mounting for the chuck). The cutting tool will take much heavier cuts in this position as the natural tendency of the leading edge of the cutting tool is to provide down forces on the headstock spindle which gives additional rigidity.
    
    
18. It is often better to buy the hot rolled steel variety instead of bright mild steel. The latter may look cleaner but it is full of stresses which produced warp problems after machining. The hrs variety machines well once the skin is machined off and good finishes are just as good, but much less prone to warping.