A Pelagic trip off the Cape of Good Hope
Over the years, I have developed a great love of sea birds, be they seen from the land whilst struggling in large seas and against ‘big winds’ or from on a boat as they are attracted to the various recipes of chum mixes put out specifically for that purpose.
One of the main deciding factors for our visit down to the Cape was the ease at which we could join a pelagic boat trip and see good numbers of tubenoses, terns, skuas etc.
So it was that, along with a mixed group containing Swiss, Swedish and a few other English birders, we gathered at Simonstown on 20th November for an ‘Anne Albatross’ pelagic trip aboard the Zest 2.
This trip was to be guided by Jim Enticott (he of the “Seabirds of the World The Complete Reference” fame), Marienne de Villiers and Francois de Sornay. Weather conditions were good with a light SW wind and some low cloud – a pleasant change from the very strong SE wind of the previous few days.
The run to Cape Point was relatively uneventful, but still provided me with a few ‘new-ish’ birds, mainly Cape Cormorants, Swift Terns, Kelp Gulls and Cape Gannets (I’d previously seen all of them from the land, but not at such close quarters). The Point was partially covered in cloud but we still managed a few evocative photographs.
Off ‘Bellows’ there were a few Sooty Shearwaters gliding amongst the Cape Cormorants as well as the first of the days Sabine’s Gulls. Surprisingly, there were 2 Giant Petrels close to the Point, these were soon followed by a Subantarctic Skua and the first of the days Cory’s Shearwaters.
Approximately 4 miles off the Point was a stern trawler but she was not fishing and was, apparently, returning to Cape Town – although it had few seabirds in attendance. Six miles off the Point we had the first of the days White-chinned Petrels and soon after I picked up the first of what was to be many Shy Albatrosses. By now the cloud had started to lift as we headed out into the deeper waters. Some 14 miles off the Point we had a few Southern Giant Petrels and the first Black-browed of the day – an adult with ‘glowing’ yellow bill. There was a lot of loose kelp on the sea surface here which, presumably, was the reason the birds had been attracted to the area.
Eventually the skipper located a Hake longliner on his radar some 20 miles off the Point. Pelagic seabirds were present in increased numbers and we managed to pick up a nice adult Atlantic Yellow-nosed Alabatross. The longliner slowly moved away westwards however, at 22 miles there were a lot of ski-boats fishing for Tuna. At last we started to pick up Wilson’s Petrels in small numbers and the first of the days Pintado Petrels. Generally bird numbers were not high here but we added a few Great Shearwaters as well as more, rather late for the time of year, Pintados.
By 1100 hr the skipper had another trawler visually and on radar and at 1130 we were alongside the Baronia at 35 miles off the Point. At last we had decent density of seabirds including both Giant Petrels, a couple of European Storm Petrels in amongst the Wilsons, at least 2 Great-winged Petrels (something I had particularly wanted to see) which took time to get everybody on, as well as increased numbers of Shy Albatross and White chinned Petrels (the most numerous species) with fewer numbers of Black browed, Great, Cory’s and Sooty Shearwaters, as well as more Wilson,s Petrel dancing around and amongst their huger cousins, Pintado, and several more Sabine’s Gulls. One very pale Subantarctic Skua caused a few flutters (it was a particularly pale-bodied individual that was reminiscent of South Polar Skua). A very obliging adult Indian Yellow nosed brought the albatross tally to four for the day. Those with cameras suddenly became very active.
After about an hour the skipper turned for Simonstown, the return journey produced a solitary Manx Shearwater about half way to the Point and a large flock of Arctic and common terns being harrassed by Pomarine Skuas and one Arctic Skua also a Humpback Whale and a few Jackass Penguins off the Point, and a close look at the Bank Cormorants and African Black Oystercatchers in False Bay, we reached Simonstown at 1615 hrs.
It had been a wonderful experience and more than lived up to my expectations. Special thanks should go the guides who made sure all birds were seen by all participants and especially to Harry the skipper, who played his part in manoevering the Zest2 in amongst the action. Also, Anne ‘Albatross’ Gray for organising the whole shebang and providing the information around which this article is based.
Species List.
Jackass Penguin Boulders, and a few in False Bay
Black-browed Albatross. Appx. 50, mainly adult
Atlantic Yellow nosed c10 adult
Indian Yellow nosed 3 adults
Yellow nosed spp. Sev. Immature
Shy Albatross appx 300, adults and imms.
Northern Giant Petrel 3-5
Southern Giant Petrel appx. 20 in total
Pintado appx. 20
Great winged Petrel 3
White chinned Petrel several hundred
Great Shearwater c 20
Corys Shearwater c 50
Sooty Shearwater c 50
Manx Shearwater 1
Wilsons Petrel c 50
European Storm c 5
Subantarctic Skua 4
Arctic Skua 1
Pomarine Skua 5